La Paz: Season Two

Finding Home in the Sixth Largest City in the World

For all the times we’ve been to Mexico, it seems strange that we haven’t been to Mexico City. Our vacations in Mexico have focused on beaches, or during our canyon phase, we were in the Copper Canyon and taking El Chepe, the train from Chihuahua to Los Mochis. Over the years, few of our vacations have been to cities.

My first word of advice to anyone visiting Mexico City is: DO NOT DRIVE. The driving is best left to those who live there. Between the cars, buses, motorcycles, bicycles, and vendors with carts, it’s a nightmare. There seem to be some rules. Cars do stop for traffic lights. But motorcycles often don’t. Mostly it just seems to be a big free-for-all. Simply being a pedestrian requires extreme levels of watchfulness. I can’t imagine the stress and anxiety of being behind the wheel. Use taxis, Ubers, or public transportation.

My second word of advice, which really should be the first, is: STAY AT THE RED TREE HOUSE. Ed and I agree that we had our best experience in any accommodation here. First off, the place is beautiful. It’s like walking into an exquisite home, and we were welcomed as if it was our home. The staff is a delight.

Ed and Frida

The patio outside our door

The B&B is owned by Craig Hudson and his partner Jorge Silva. Craig is an Ashland resident (part-time now), who taught at SOU for 30 years in the theatre department and created most of set designs for the productions there. He also owns the Cabaret Theatre, and completely restored it after purchasing it in 1982. He continues to be the resident scenic designer there.

Recently he completely redesigned Hearsay restaurant in Ashland, and I like the quote he has on Hearsay’s website because it explains the experience we had at The Red Tree House.

He said: “I like to create environments for people to have experiences in. It’s true of everything I do, and it is theatrical in all senses. It’s fun. And believe me; I’m grateful that I’ve gotten to do that.”

Craig’s amazing eye for design, light, and color create a lovely ambiance and that experience he is talking about. Our room was both comfortable and well-appointed in every way. I’m sure all the rooms are. The breakfasts in the morning were delicious, and in the evenings after a long day of touring, they offer a happy hour with complimentary wine and beer from 6-8 p.m. It was a wonderful time to sit and meet folks, hear about their days and share experiences. 

Craig and Jorge have another B&B in Zipolite on the Oaxacan coast, and we will be going there in about two weeks. 

We had a good time in Mexico City, in large part because we so enjoyed our stay at The Red Tree House. We plotted out our days during breakfasts and happy hour, based on tips from the staff and Craig. 

We ended up in the Centro Histórico one day, where the highlights were Diego Rivera’s political murals in the Secretaría de Educación Pública and the Museo de Arte Popular. The zocalo in Mexico City was huge, but it doesn’t hold a candle to either the zócalo in Puebla or in Oaxaca.

Diego Rivera mural

We spent two days wandering around in the Bosque de Chapultepec, a huge wood that probably supplies half of Mexico City with cleaner air. The anthropological museum located in the park is awesome and so is the museum in the Castillo de Chapultepec. Of course, we went to the botanical gardens both days because we love the plants and also wanted to look for the Berylline and White-eared Hummingbirds.

Bosque de Chapultepec

Fountain at the Anthropological Museum 

Sedums at the Botanical Gardens

Echineacea!

My Flax in Ashland never looked like this!

Then of course there was the balloon ride over Teotihuacan and my walk through the ruins (see FB for my posts). That’s a must do, but the ride out there is truly epic. There are the drivers of course, but it’s far. The ride home took two hours.

Most people have great meals in Mexico City, but we both managed to get a stomach thing, so that slowed us down. We’ll make up for it here in Oaxaca.

We’ll return to Mexico City sometime, but we need some beach time, mountain time and river time before heading off to more cities.