La Paz: Season Two

Good People 

We’re about to leave La Paz to head over to the mainland to Puebla, Mexico City and Oaxaca, and I want to acknowledge all the good people that we’ve met here that have made our stay memorable, and one that has us wanting to return. 

And while I mention particular people, there were so many folks at the car rental offices, dive shop, kayak and SUP rental shop, optical businesses, taco stands, Uber drivers, taxi drivers—just a lot of friendly, helpful and kind folks.

But of the specific folks I want to name, first there is Richard, our B&B owner in Accommodation #1. I mentioned him before, but I must do it again as it was such a lucky choice to stay in his placed first. He’s a man with a lot of interests, and he has created a beautiful oasis in what we thought was an unlikely part of town. He spent a lot of time with us at breakfasts, sharing his knowledge and insights about La Paz and other topics. He always steered us right. He worked on short notice to get us on two tours at very good prices. The boat trip to the islands and our swim with whale sharks were two highlights of our trip.

Esther, at Accommodation #2 and #5 (we’re back here again!), shared a number of thoughts about living in La Paz, whether to own or rent, her thoughts about the city and its future. Not only that, she’s a character and has given us a good deal on our nights here.

Her hotel is in a historical building that she totally renovated after she purchased it 22 years ago. Again, here’s a person (from Switzerland) that has created a beautiful living space —both outside and inside—and created a successful business, who is willing to share her knowledge with others. 

For many years, the only English-language bookstore was housed within Esther’s building. When we first visited the bookstore, I met a young woman, Valeria, studying English and volunteering at the bookstore in order to practice her English. 

I left the store pondering a deal—perhaps we could go out together and Valeria could help me with my Spanish, and I could assist with her English. About a week later, I posed the question. She agreed, and said that she’d bring her mother, Alicia. 

We’ve had a great time together. Valeria and Alicia have been extremely generous and great fun. Our first time out, Alicia drove us around the outskirts of La Paz for about two hours. Her driving made me nervous because she was meandering along and chatting away, while the other drivers buzzed around us, but I can't concentrate on both Spanish and driving, so I let it go, and look, we all made it! 

Anyway, we chatted and got to know one another, and they pointed out certain good restaurants, as well as the neighborhoods where many of the US and Canadian ex-pats or semi-ex-pats are building their homes. 

Alicia and Valeria

On our next excursion, we went for breakfast in a lovely spot located away from the downtown where we had a quiet place to talk. A few days later we spent time over bowls of delicious fruit in a restaurant on the beach, where Valeria and Alicia introduced me juego de Lotería. This is a traditional game similar to bingo, but played with 54 cards featuring various pictures, and in order to play the game one does need to know the names of the cards!

Today we had our last visit before Ed and I head out tomorrow morning. We had a Mexican breakfast and then Alicia drove me by possible places that Ed and I could rent in town. Before we parted ways, they gave me a t-shirt, hat, a Lotería game, as well as two small bottles of tequila. So kind and generous, and they never let me pay for anything. 

What about my Spanish with them? They have built my confidence, offering much encouragement, and they want to get together when I return. That raises the stakes and gives me a goal to further improve my Spanish chatting ability.

It pays to try out one’s Spanish. During a van ride on our way to get the boat to our island tour, I attempted a conversation with a family (parents and son in late 20’s, early 30’s). Turns out they were from Puebla, Mexico, a city that Ed and I knew little about, but had considered visiting on our way from Mexico City to Oaxaca.

They spoke about the city’s beauty and history (according to Wikipedia, among the five most important Spanish colonial cities in Mexico and has the world’s largest Volkswagen factory outside of Germany). 

Before we parted ways after the boat trip, Marco, the son, told Ed and me in very good English, that if we come to Puebla we should look him up, he would love to show us around the city. The offer was unexpected and greatly appreciated, and it sealed the deal on our decision to go to Puebla.

I have been What’s App-ing with Marco, and he has been a huge help in finding a hotel, providing directions about getting a bus from the airport in Mexico City to Puebla. Once we get there, I’ll learn more about what he does, but for certain, he could be in the tourism industry. He is also a mezcal lover and aficionado. Ed and I have never been fans of mezcal, but we are willing to give it a go. Maybe like scotch in Scotland, mezcal will taste better in Puebla and Oaxaca.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Victor and Zulma, who have patiently and kindly endured our inconsistencies around buying, renting, not buying, not renting…and we’re still wrestling.

Finally, there is the team of young folks at our favorite bar Harker on the Malecón—Andrea, Diego, Arón, Yulisa, Ruben. Always welcoming and friendly, and helpful with tips on where to find a good optician or place to find a good pair of socks. 

I almost forgot! Our “Game of Thrones” wait team! The night we went for the last episode we were welcomed with hugs and kisses, taken to a reserved table, and hugged on the way out.

All these good people opened up the city to us in ways that were unexpected and wonderfully inviting.

Of course we want to return.